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2019年餐飲業的幾個新現象

Naomi Tomky 2020年01月02日

2019年,眾多才華橫溢的餐館、主廚、調酒師和烹飪業務人士想出了各種改善我們進食體驗的方法。

西雅圖本·巴利斯餐館的餐廳。圖片來源:Ben Paris

這一年餐飲界有著許多令人驚嘆的潮流走向,包括土司的持續改進、小地方萌生大想法的方式、高端火鍋風靡全美等。在2019年的歷程中,眾多才華橫溢的餐館、主廚、調酒師和烹飪業務人士想出了各種改善我們進食體驗的方法。

餐館和相關業務人士去年干得最漂亮的五件事如下——希望他們在未來會干得更多。

兩人搭檔(或多人搭檔)

如同音樂領域的超級組合概念一樣,餐飲界的頂級女性去年雙雙搭檔,強強聯手。在洛杉磯Sqirl餐廳工作的本地女性杰西卡·科斯洛,與舊金山Cala餐廳的加布里埃爾·卡瑪拉,以及墨西哥城的Contramar餐館合作啟動了Onda餐廳。

This year set a table full of amazing restaurant trends, including the continual improvement on toast, the way big ideas took shape in tiny spaces, and how high-end hot pot exploded all over America. And over the course of 2019, tons of incredibly talented restaurateurs, chefs, bartenders, and culinary businesspeople came up with ways to improve our eating experiences.

Here are five of the best things that restaurants and related business did this year—and that they hopefully plan to do a lot more of in the future.

It takes two (or more)

Like the concept of supergroups in the music world, the top women of the restaurant world paired off and powered up this year. In Los Angeles, local Jessica Koslow of Sqirl worked with Gabriela Cámara of San Francisco’s Cala and Mexico City’s Contramar to launch Onda.

Onda餐廳提供的菜肴——魚潛海帶,該餐館被描述為是姐妹城市洛杉磯與墨西哥城之間的“對話”。圖片來源:Onda

或許它是去年最受期待的飯店,它將兩個城市、兩種風格、兩道菜系融合在一個神奇的空間里。在華盛頓特區,卡理·斯泰納和安娜·布萊雷斯各自運營著自己的餐館,但去年她們合作開了一家歡快友好的社區型餐館,叫Dos Mamis。

就在年底前,底特律四位著名的餐館老板和主廚——Marrow的何平和薩拉·韋爾奇,Folk的琪琪·露亞和羅哈尼·福克斯,組成了一個團隊成為巢蛋(Nest Egg),并開了一家供應酒和海鮮的餐館Mink。

墻紙不再可有可無

主題墻紙在餐館的存在,頗有一段時間了,但2019年主題墻紙上了一個臺階——秀色可餐。

在2018年走紅餐館中休閑派的一個分支、位于舊金山的Che Fico Alimentari餐館,圖案怡人的墻紙上的玫瑰色花叢,位于鉆石形的中心位置,它們都是由各種肉和熟食制成,展示著餐館的明星產品。

鎮上Breadbelly餐館的墻紙特色是亞洲人和亞裔美國人的糕點,突出展示了榴蓮、番荔枝、山竹和其他東南亞特色水果。

Perhaps the year’s most anticipated restaurant, it brought together two cities, two styles, and two cuisines into one incredible space. In Washington D.C., Carlie Steiner and Anna Bran-Leis each operate their own restaurants (Himitsu, now known as Pom Pom, and Taqueria Del Barrio), but came together to open a cheery, friendly neighboring spot, Dos Mamis.

And just squeaking in before the end of the year, four of Detroit’s best-known restaurateurs and chefs—Ping Ho and Sarah Welch of Marrow and Kiki Louya and Rohani Foulkes of Folk—formed a group called Nest Egg and opened wine and seafood spot Mink.

Wallpaper is no longer an afterthought

Statement wallpaper has been big at restaurants for a long time, but 2019 took it to the next level—looking good enough to eat.

At San Francisco’s Che Fico Alimentari, the more casual offshoot of last year’s hit, Che Fico, the delightfully patterned wallpaper’s rosy rosettes in the center of the diamond pattern are all made of various meats and charcuterie, referencing the restaurant’s star product.

Across town, the restroom wallpaper of Breadbelly, which specializes in Asian and Asian-American pastries, features durian, cherimoya, mangosteen, and other treasured fruits of Southeast Asia.

小餐車來到了在本·巴利斯就餐的客人面前。圖片來源:Ben Paris

西雅圖的本·巴利斯餐館,在餐廳里貼出了一款怪異海洋生物壁畫,但與之相連的賓館大堂墻紙則受到著名的派克市場的啟發——不說別的了——尤其是季節性的當地海產。

孵化器并非只適用于科技初創企業

從塔斯卡盧薩到塔科馬,人人都厭倦了美食廣場——尤其是那些被批評過度炒作的在全國范圍內一下子推出的美食廣場。但有一種美食廣場勢頭不減,仍令人振奮:烹飪孵化器,是為試圖開創業務獲取資源的企業家準備的。

Seattle’s Ben Paris features a whimsical sea creature mural in the dining room, but the connected hotel lobby wallpaper was inspired by the famous Pike Place Market—among other things—especially the seasonal produce and local seafood.

Incubators are not just for tech startups

From Tuscaloosa to Tacoma, everybody is sick of food halls—especially the watered-down, overhyped versions that have been pushed out en masse around the country. But there is one genre of food hall that is picking up steam and still getting everybody excited: culinary incubators for entrepreneurs struggling to get access to the resources needed to start businesses.

里姆的加州,是一家位于加州奧克蘭的阿拉伯街頭食品烘培店,它就源自一個2005年在舊金山發起的成功的孵化器項目La Cocina。圖片來源:La Cocina

位于印第安納波利斯的費什的試驗廚房,和位于洛杉磯的大道市場,都在某種程度上實踐著這一理念,這一潮流越來越強。舊金山的La Cocina市政市場,側重于培養以低收入移民和有色人種女性為主的主廚,這個項目去年秋天沒有啟動,但今年年初應該落地。

與此同時,西雅圖郊外的Tukwila Village美食廣場將要開啟,它是由食品創新網絡運營的,為非營利項目的參與者提供一個家,幫助他們啟動一些食品業務,他們主要是一些低收入的難民和移民企業家。

如同騎士精神一樣,貼心服務并未消失

許多父母出門,會帶好給孩子換尿布之所需,但當他們走進一間餐館廁所,發現里面堆著許多尿布和布條,感覺是不一樣的。

位于阿什維爾的Tupelo Honey咖啡館,已經擴展到了像博伊西這樣的地方,但它們沒忘了帶上南方人的貼心和熱情,在衛生間里他們放置尿布,在全國有眾多的獨立餐館也這么干,比如西雅圖的JuneBaby和Sen Noodle House。

類似的,像芝加哥的Oriole和西雅圖的Harry’s Fine Foods餐館,他們會在衛生間放置女性月經用品。這只是件小事,但讓人有賓至如歸的感覺。

無酒精調飲終被認可

任何一個不喝酒的人——不論是由于懷孕或健康原因暫時不喝,還是一直不喝酒——在大約2017年前會這么跟你說,如果你不喝酒,餐館才不關心你喝什么。除了標配的蘇打水,不喝酒的人也沒啥好喝的。

Fisher’s Test Kitchen in Indianapolis and BLVD MRKT in Los Angeles each operate some version of this idea, and the trend is only getting bigger. San Francisco’s La Cocina Municipal Marketplace, which focuses on chefs who are low-income immigrants and women of color, didn’t quite open on time this fall but should land early next year.

Around the same time, the Tukwila Village Food Hall just outside Seattle should open. Run by the Food Innovation Network, it provides a home for participants in the nonprofit’s program to help launch food businesses primarily by low-income refugee and immigrant entrepreneurs.

Like chivalry, hospitality is not dead

Most parents come well-packed with what they need to change their children’s diapers, but that doesn’t make it any less of a relief to walk into a bathroom and see that diapers and wipes are well-stocked.

As Asheville-based Tupelo Honey Café expanded to places like Boise, the company brought a bit of Southern hospitality along by keeping diapers in the bathrooms, as do tons of independently owned restaurants around the country like JuneBaby and Sen Noodle House in Seattle.

Similarly, places like Chicago’s Oriole and Seattle’s Harry’s Fine Foods keep menstrual products in their restrooms for customers. It’s a small notion that makes those who know that they might someday need one feel welcome.

Mocktails finally get respect

As anyone who has been sober—whether temporarily due to pregnancy or health, or permanently—before about 2017 can tell you, restaurants did not used to care what you drank if you didn’t want alcohol. Beyond the standard soda gun, nondrinkers were pretty much out of luck.

無酒精調飲出現在Existing Conditions餐廳的菜單上,這是一家位于曼哈頓西村的頗為流行的雞尾酒吧。圖片來源:Existing Conditions

最近幾年有些事變了,出現了幾種好喝的瓶裝氣泡水或無酒精調飲,而去年幾乎卷起一陣大潮,不喝酒人士對飲料的需求得到了尊重,選擇也多了。現在的餐館會吹噓其自制的酸化飲料和蘇打水,并在啤酒飲料龍頭里也放紅茶菌,不含酒精飲料出現在了雞尾酒菜單的前面和中間——比如在熱門的紐約雞尾酒吧Existing Conditions,這些飲料出現在了首頁——終于不再是畏畏縮縮地放在最后面了。(財富中文網)

譯者:宣峰

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But while that changed in recent years and a few nice bottled sparkling waters or mocktails popped up, this year brought a near tidal wave of both options and respect for the nondrinker’s beverage needs. Restaurants now brag about their house-made shrubs and sodas and keep kombucha on tap with the beer, and spirit-free drinks popped up front and center on cocktail menus—like hot NYC cocktail bar Existing Conditions, where they’re on the first page—finally released from the corner of shame in the back.

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