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2020年這些美食會大受歡迎

Naomi Tomky 2020年01月01日

這份清單稍微有點不同。它探討2019年哪些令人驚艷的潮流、菜肴、美食引起了人們的關注,而且在未來幾年值得人們給予更多關注。

Tuétano Taqueria加了牛骨髓的墨西哥卷餅Birria,加州圣思多羅市。
圖片來源:Naomi Tomky/FORTUNE

大多數關于來年美食流行趨勢的年終清單通常會預測人們明年會在雜貨店貨架上看到什么,而且往往總是聚焦于最新的健康熱點(或騙局),或者硅谷計劃如何創新方法改變供應鏈等。

這份清單稍微有點不同。它不是要預測2020年會出現哪些意想不到的東西,而是探討2019年哪些令人驚艷的潮流、菜肴、美食引起了人們的關注,而且在未來幾年值得人們給予更多關注。

YouTube上的老奶奶

對于馬斯坦娜瑪的追隨者而言, 2018年是在悲傷中結束的,這位107歲的印度籍奶奶于2018年12月去世,她生前曾經向2億觀眾講授如何制作美食,2019年同樣對身懷美食知識技能的女性展示了熱情和敬意,來自墨西哥米卻肯州的多娜·安琪拉和她的YouTube頻道“從我的農場到你的廚房”(De Mi Rancho a Tu Cocina)在網上大熱。

與此同時,“意大利面婆婆”(Pasta Grannies)頻道的婆婆們在2019年10月推出了同名烹飪書,其美食事業邁上了新臺階。現在,我們迫不及待地想看到來自埃塞俄比亞、厄瓜多爾和巴巴多斯的美食婆婆們也成為明星。

Most end-of-year lists about food trends tend to predict what we’ll see on grocery store shelves next year, and often lean heavily toward the latest wellness scheme (or scam) or how Silicon Valley plans to find a new way to alter supply chains.

This is a slightly differently list. It’s less about what unexpected thing will jump out in 2020, and more about some amazing movements, dishes, and cuisines that snagged some attention in 2019 and deserve a whole lot more in the coming years.

Grandmas on YouTube

While 2018 ended on a sad note for followers of the Indian woman Mastanamma, as the 107-year-old woman passed away in December having shown more than 200 million viewers how to cook, 2019 maintained that same level of energy and respect for women full of knowledge and culinary skills, with Do?a ángela of the Mexican state of Michoacán and her YouTube channel, De Mi Rancho a Tu Cocina (from my farm to your kitchen) going viral.

Meanwhile, the Italian women of the Pasta Grannies channel took things up a notch in October with the publication of their eponymous cookbook. Now we can’t wait to see our Ethiopian, Ecuadoran, and Bajan breakout culinary grandmas becoming stars, too.

薩曼莎·福爾,肯塔基州萊克星頓市主營斯里蘭卡美食的Tuk Tuk餐廳(Tuk Tuk Sri Lankan Bites)的老板兼主廚。? 圖片來源:Clay Williams

斯里蘭卡美食

薩曼莎·福爾曾經是餐廳網站設計師,但現在她的主業是烹飪而不是編程——而且她帶有肯塔基風格的斯里蘭卡菜肴在全國掀起了一陣熱潮。一開始,她在肯塔基州萊克星頓的一些酒吧里開快閃店——斯里蘭卡美食Tuk Tuk餐廳,與大家分享她的家鄉傳統菜肴——而顯然,這種美食很對這個國家的胃口。2019年,她的烤咖喱番茄派登上了《美食與美酒》雜志的封面,《好胃口》則深入介紹了她的背景。

西雅圖還開了一家名為盧比的斯里蘭卡酒吧。2020年,我們想擁有更多的斯里蘭卡美食,也希望能在知名美食雜志封面上看到更多生機勃勃的創業公司。

墨西哥肉卷餅Birria

墨西哥北部的birria(一種辣肉湯)是用牛肉做的。在提華納,人們通常會把birria放進墨西哥玉米卷里,把圓玉米餅在鮮紅的湯里泡一包,再裹上燉肉。

Birria在2019年紅爆全美,去年2月,帕特麗夏·埃斯卡西加為洛杉磯Teddy’s Red Tacos寫了篇美食評鑒,為這場粉絲盛宴接開了序幕。普莉希拉·庫列爾在圣地亞哥郊外圣思多羅開的Tuetano Taqueria餐廳一整年都備受關注,廣受好評;西雅圖的Birrieria Tijuana在多地都開了分店;664 TJ Birrieria開到了拉斯維加斯大道上。

最后,《紐約時報》的皮特·威爾斯帶來了點睛之筆,給位于紐約皇后區的餐車Birria-Landia打了兩顆星。等到大家都吃過原始的做法,2020年人們應該會熱議許多餐廳采用油炸玉米粉餅制作的混合版本:油炸birria(quesabirria)。

Sri Lankan cuisine

Samantha Fore used to design websites for restaurants, but now she’s doing more cooking than coding—and making national waves thanks to her Sri Lankan food with a Kentucky edge. Based in Lexington, Ky., Fore began Tuk Tuk Sri Lankan Bites as a pop-up in local bars to share her culinary heritage—which apparently the country is quite hungry for. 2019, her roasted curry tomato pie graced the cover of Food & Wine, and Bon Appétit went deep into her background.

Seattle also saw the opening of a Sri Lankan bar called Rupee. 2020, we want more Sri Lankan food, but maybe also more scrappy startups on the cover of major food magazines.

Birria tacos

The northern Mexican version of birria (a spicy, meaty soup) is made with beef. And in Tijuana, that’s usually slipped into tacos, with the tortillas dragged through the bright-red soup before wrapping the stewed meat.

2019, birria tacos exploded across the border, as Patricia Escárcega kicked off the fan-fest with a review of Teddy’s Red Tacos in Los Angeles in February. Priscilla Curiel’s Tuétano Taqueria in San Ysidro, outside San Diego, drew acclaim throughout the year; Seattle’s Birrieria Tijuana expanded to multiple locations; and 664 TJ Birrieria opened on the Las Vegas Strip.

Finally, Pete Wells delivered the crowning touch, handing two stars from the New York Times to Birria-Landia, a food truck in Queens, N.Y. Once everyone’s tried the original, we’ll spend 2020 talking about the hybrid quesadilla version many places serve: the quesabirria.

Zapapizza的Taquito比薩,俄勒岡波特蘭。 圖片來源:Naomi Tomky/FORTUNE

非傳統比薩餅配料

在Clock-Out Lounge的窗口里提供早午餐的西雅圖Breezy Town Pizza比薩從百吉餅中獲得靈感,創造了“應有盡有”比薩(說起來,所有的“應有盡有”都是一種潮流,熱度也可能會遇冷)。把芝士、洋蔥、熏鮭魚、奶油芝士、刺山柑花蕾還有各種香料都放在厚厚的比薩餅皮上,讓比薩看起來就像百吉餅一樣。

在俄勒岡州的波特蘭,Zapapizza將墨西哥經典食物與比薩結合在一起,做出了表面是墨西哥taquito卷和chilaquiles餅的比薩——這兩種比薩結合得非常完美,與Breezy Town的比薩非常相似。在圣保羅,來自《頂級大廚》的參賽者賈斯汀·薩瑟蘭和他的合作伙伴合開的The Fitz店供應各種各樣的餡餅,代表不同的城市,有有趣的,也有古怪的——薩凡納比薩里有海鮮鍋,上面還澆有歐貝奶油。如果人們對比薩餅皮投以同樣多的思考、關注和創造力時,這種潮流就棒極了。只要人們不濫用比薩自由的特權,我們就會想要更多。 (財富中文網)

譯者:Agatha

Unorthodox pizza toppings

Serving brunch from a window inside the Clock-Out Lounge, Seattle’s Breezy Town Pizza took inspiration from the bagel and created the “Everything” pizza (speaking of which, the “Everything” everything is a trend that can probably cool it). Cheese, onions, lox, cream cheese, capers, and a sprinkling of everything spice married the pizza and the bagel on a thick pan crust.

In Portland, Ore., Zapapizza combined Mexican classics with pizza, serving up taquito-topped slices and chilaquiles pies—which work remarkably well on a style of pie similar to Breezy Town’s. In St. Paul, The Fitz from Top Chef contestant Justin Sutherland and partners offered a variety of pies representing various cities and ranging from intriguing to downright odd—the Savannah has the better part of a seafood boil with Old Bay cream poured on top to boot. When as much thought and care is applied to the crust as the creativity, this trend rocks. As long as people don’t abuse the privilege of pizza freedom, we’re left wanting more.

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